1961 thunderbird brake drums3/16/2024 I have heard mixed results - some good some not so good. I suppose it ended up like everything else - in the scrap metal bin.Īs far as wheel cylinders go I had mine re-sleeved with stainless steel. He has since closed down and when I found out that he had retired I couldn't find out what had happened to the machinery, he also had the means to radii the shoes to mach the drums. He also had the means to machine the drums after welding. He actually did tack weld the drums onto the hubs. When I first bought my car and the brakes were giving me some grief I took it to an old mechanic and this is when he pointed out to me that the hubs were supposed to be riveted onto the drums. Here is a photo of the jig that I made so I could silver solder the cable back to the end at the correct length. They were to long so I just shortened them. I ended up making my own from new ones that I bought. The manual says it is one length and the Master Parts Catalogue says it is another length. I don't think that you can get the correct length adjuster cable for a 63. Try purchasing old ones and have them re-sleeved. most of the photo's that vendors have on their web pages show the correct ones but don't have them in stock. I don't think you will be able to purchase new wheel cylinders either that have the correct angle for the bleed nipple. brand of car had something similar.Īs far as the self adjusters go the last set that I bought which was some years ago had the wrong size thread, instead of being a 7/16" thread there was a 10mm thread. This was the same here in Australia, from memory even the "Holdens" which was a G.M. As I mentioned earlier back in the 60's when you purchased a new brake drum there was a new hub attached. Some people don't seem to have this problem, if they don't then they are lucky. Now I haven't had any trouble in wheel shuddering and the brakes work fine, they pull to one side or the other but this is because of wear and all I need to do is adjust them. If you do a search on this forum there is quite a lot of information on front brakes. Since owning the car I have done just under 50,000 miles I myself like to drive my 63 and I take it when I go on holidays. One of the reasons may well be that a lot of people may not drive their cars a lot and when they do they are not doing a lot of heavy braking. Why some people don't have a problem with the new drums I am not sure. Try grinding the burred material off the stud before you knock it out. If the shoulder is on the old stud it may tear material away from the hub. If you change the studs over in the hub be careful when you knock the old studs out. So you need different shoulder lengths on the wheel stud if you are going to use the stud to rivet the drum to the hub. That is where it bolts to the hub the thickness of the metal varies. With the different suppliers of brake drums they vary in thickness in the wall. Some people have had no problems in doing this and some have had problems. Then when you do the wheel nuts up it holds the drum, hub and rim all together. They are not a tight fit, they just slide on and there is nothing to center the drum to the hub. The brake drums sold by the different vendors say that you can just put them straight onto your car and there is no shuddering. I didn't get a definite answer to my question but this is how I see it. They probably did it this way because there is no steering.Ībout 10 years ago I asked on this forum some questions about the brake drums. They didn't use this idea on the rear brakes, but centered the brake drum on a flange on the axle. If they weren't riveted then if you got a flat tyre and took the wheel off, the drum could drop down a slight amount and make the brake drum run out. If the brake drum runs off center or oscillates then when you applied the brakes you would get a vibration through the brake pedal and / or steering column. The reason Ford did this is so the brake drum ran true to the center of the axle. This is where Ford would turn the drum using the bearing cups on a arbor to make it all run true. I am open to correctionsīack in the day when you bought a new set of drums (yes 2 because what you do to one side you have to do to the other) they came with new hubs riveted to the drums by the wheel studs and the hub had the outer bearing cups in place. I am not a mechanic but this is how I understand it. I take it you meant the original drums were to bad to be turned. You say that the original hubs were to bad too be turned.
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